
There’s too much catching up that I owe you, so I’ve made a brief, 10-day retrospective:
Days 33-43 – A couple of days before I left for my trip, my dad said something that I thought was strange. He said, “When you get there, I think you’ll be disappointed.” I wondered how I could be let down by a place that I’d never been to? But that’s the very reason why I might be; it was all expectations grounded in no reality.
It’s been 10 days since I first landed in Berlin and from the instant I walked out of the airport, I’ve had the sense that I love it here. Not only that, before I came even, I already didn’t want to leave. When my ex-husband, who also spent 3 months in Berlin before we met, asked what I liked most about it, I said, “I like walking along the canal,” which is the only tangible thing I could think of. Of course, I like the food and culture and people, that everyone rides a bike, that you can drink a beer as you sit by the river, and, in fact this is what you see many young people doing, gathered in the afternoons or evenings here in Berlin. I like the cafes that line the canal. I like the seriousness of german culture. I like that art is everywhere. I like walking and taking the bahn. I like the orange shingled rooftops and the view of them from my 4th floor apartment. I like the tall ceilings and old hardware in apartments and that the apartments are built around courtyards. I like that it feels like autumn and the old European city architecture.
I like everything about it here.
Last night Clare and I went to the James Turrell light instillation in an old (circa 1924) cemetery chapel. The LED lights hidden within the structures of the windows and walls, the alter, and apses follow the movement of natural light outside as the sunsets. It both mimics and enhances the natural light. This time of day has always been a profoundly violent one for me because of the shifting light, it disturbs me and makes me sad. So you can understand that this experience was overwhelming, the mood magnified, both awesome and inescapable.
Afterward, Clare and I went to dinner where we met with her friend Emily, a writer and magazine editor living in Berlin. After telling me that she did her MFA at University of Arizona, I realized that she knows my ex-husband. She remembered him posting excited comments to Facebook when we got married. “And now, I’m meeting you,” she said. The coincidence blew Clare’s mind. It was already wild enough that Clare and I would be sitting across from each other at a restaurant table in a city and country so far from the one where we’d known each other before. I knew Clare before LA, though. In San Francisco, her boyfriend was best friends with my old boyfriend. We once we on a camping trip together.
When people say the world is small, you can’t imagine how small it is until experiences like these where you feel like eventually, you might end up meeting everyone on the planet someday.
In many ways, I can’t tell if it is what I expected it to be or not.
Walking home from a bar last night, I could hear my boots clicking along the sidewalk and it reminded me of living in San Francisco, my boots clicking down those streets you walk or bike or take the bus down, but never drive. It felt safe, though it was dark and late, because lots of people were out. I always felt safe in San Francisco too, because of this.
I feel very free here. I don’t know if this is particular to Berlin, maybe I’d feel this way in any European city, but it feels just right. Going back to LA seems unimaginable and I’d like to figure out a way not to.
But I also have to admit that there was a let down. Before I left, I met someone who lived not in Germany, but a country close by and I thought we would meet up when I got here. I’d missed his presence since he left LA. We’d only spent a little over a week together there, but I had, of course, created an expectation. I was open to whatever happened once we met up, but the openness was still contingent on meeting up. When I got here and learned that it was not meant to be, my expectations didn’t know where to settle themselves. Somehow the failure of this idea compounded the loneliness I suddenly felt of not knowing anyone here aside from Clare, her husband, and my friend Ariane.
I wondered then if this was the disappointment my dad was talking about. Could be. But, though this man, in his small way, inspired the open spirit it took to get me to move here, I see he was a bridge to this adventure and does not need to belong to it in any other way.
In the last few days, I’ve met so many people. I have dates not just with Germans, but people from other countries also doing stints in Berlin for whatever reason. It is the international richness, too, that I love about Berlin. America is wide and big, but it is just one country. With all its diversity, it is homogeneous, in that, our cultures are bonded in more ways than they’re not.
A few nights after arriving, I had drinks with Ariane and her french neighbor. The intertwining and exchangeability, interchangeability of languages deepened what was communicated, I think, because grappling with languages fuels the need to understand and be understood. It was beautiful.
I don’t feel too lonely anymore. I don’t get lost as much. Public transit is easy. I wake up in the morning and ask myself what I want to do, who I want to be. I can be anyone. I get to be the parts of myself I was afraid of, or didn’t understand, before I made myself do a frightening thing and then discovered how sweet it is.
From the Turrell installation.

















